The Yiwu brown sugar making technique was designated as a national-level representative item of intangible cultural heritage by the State Council in 2014 (Item No. VIII-231). Classified under traditional sugar-making techniques, this craft relies on "green-skinned" sugarcane harvested around the *Lidong* (Start of Winter) solar term. It preserves ancient processing methods—such as using ox-driven wooden presses and a series of iron cauldrons over a continuous stove—and is deeply rooted in local Yiwu customs. Embodied within it are over four centuries of sugar-making history and the region's unique "feather-for-sugar" trading culture, making it a highly representative example of Jiangnan's artisanal culinary heritage.
As a landmark intangible cultural heritage food of Yiwu, Zhejiang, Yiwu brown sugar is renowned as "Oriental Chocolate" and ranks first among the "Three Treasures of Yiwu." According to the *Genealogy of the Jia Family of Yanli Village (Yangchuan)*, the history of Yiwu's traditional sugar pressing dates back to the Shunzhi reign of the Qing Dynasty. Passed down through generations for over 400 years, the craft is centered in the towns of Yiting and Fotang, extending its influence across central Zhejiang. It is a culinary art born of the symbiosis between agricultural seasons, artisanal craftsmanship, and local folk traditions; the process involves no chemical additives and relies entirely on traditional physical methods to preserve the sugarcane's natural sweetness and aroma.
I. Intangible Cultural Heritage Status: Nationally Certified, Authentic Traditional Craftsmanship
According to the State Council's public listings, the traditional sugar-making technique (specifically Yiwu brown sugar production) was officially added to the National List of Representative Items of Intangible Cultural Heritage in December 2014. It was the first culinary heritage technique to bear the name of Yiwu. Additionally, Yiwu brown sugar has been designated a National Geographical Indication Agricultural Product, receiving special state protection. Distinct from industrially manufactured brown sugar, its unique, inimitable flavor profile is the result of a combination of ancient manual techniques, local raw materials, and the specific terroir of the region.
II. Raw Materials and Seasonality: Harmonizing with Nature and Timing
Traditional brown sugar production emphasizes harmony with the natural seasons; it is never produced out of season. The exclusive raw material for Yiwu brown sugar is locally grown "green-skinned" sugarcane. Unlike common eating sugarcane, this variety features thin skin and abundant juice, offering a rich, mellow sweetness and a higher mineral content. Sugar production is strictly confined to the period between *Lidong* (Start of Winter) and *Xiaoxue* (Light Snow). During this time, temperatures drop and nutrients fully settle within the sugarcane stalks; the juice reaches its peak sweetness and nutritional value. Adhering to a seasonal rule upheld by generations of sugar makers, they never process off-season cane.
III. A Complete Set of Traditional Processes: Twenty manual steps controlled entirely by artisan expertise.
The authentic Yiwu traditional brown sugar process comprises four core stages—ingredient selection, juice extraction, boiling, and air-drying—broken down into over twenty manual steps. No instruments are used to measure temperature or quantity; instead, artisans control the heat by observing color and texture and tasting the syrup, thereby preserving the sugar's authentic, rustic character.
First: Ox-driven wooden press for traditional juice extraction. Unlike modern mechanical methods, traditional workshops use old-fashioned wooden presses powered by oxen. The slow crushing of green-skinned sugarcane maximizes the retention of dietary fiber and trace elements. This method yields juice with minimal impurities and a rich, original flavor—a crucial step in defining the sugar's taste.
Second: Residue filtration and juice settling. Freshly extracted juice contains pulp and sediment; artisans remove these impurities through multi-layer gauze filtration and natural settling. No clarifying agents or preservatives are added; purely physical purification ensures the ingredient remains natural and untainted.
Third: Nine-pot linked stove and slow-fire boiling. The process utilizes unique "Plum Blossom" stoves and a linear array of nine iron pots—specialized equipment for this craft. The juice flows sequentially through the nine pots, boiling progressively from the shallowest to the deepest. High heat evaporates water, medium heat concentrates the sugars, and low heat thickens the syrup into its final form. Boiling is the stage that most tests an artisan's skill; even a slight excess of heat causes a burnt, bitter taste, while insufficient heat results in a loose, unstable texture. Seasoned artisans determine the precise stages of boiling solely by observing the shape of the bubbles and the color of the syrup.
Fourth: Removal from the pot, air-drying, and manual shaping. Once the syrup is boiled to a thick, smooth consistency, it is immediately removed from the heat and poured into bamboo trays to cool naturally. Through repeated manual stirring and crystallization, it eventually solidifies into blocks of traditional brown sugar characterized by a fluffy texture and a warm, lustrous hue; the taste is pleasantly sweet and mellow, lacking the cloying, artificial sweetness often found in industrial products.
IV. Folk Customs: Yiwu’s Sugar Culture Embedded in Daily Life
Yiwu brown sugar has long transcended its role as a mere foodstuff; it serves as a cultural vessel deeply embedded in local rural life, wedding traditions, festive celebrations, and the history of commerce. In the past, brown sugar was an essential ceremonial gift for weddings in Yiwu’s villages, symbolizing a sweet and smooth life. During the Winter Solstice and Spring Festival, households would brew brown sugar ginger tea and prepare brown sugar-infused twisted dough sticks and flaky pastries—treats that warded off the cold and provided nourishment, embodying the quintessential flavor of the New Year for locals.
Moreover, this craft is inextricably linked to the cultural fabric of Yiwu. Historically, the "Sugar-Tapping Guild" traveled far and wide, trading small sugar goods for scrap items like chicken feathers—a practice that forged the city's daring, entrepreneurial "chicken-feather-for-sugar" spirit. A single spoonful of Yiwu brown sugar encapsulates the agrarian civilization of central Zhejiang and the history of grassroots commercial development.
V. Current Status of the Craft: Preserving Tradition, Embracing Innovation
Traditional sugar pressing once relied heavily on human and animal labor, involving arduous processes and difficult transmission. Today, leveraging policies for the protection of intangible cultural heritage, Yiwu has established specialized centers to pass on the craft. These centers preserve core traditional methods—such as the nine-pan boiling process and the harvesting of sugarcane at its seasonal peak—while optimizing working conditions. Simultaneously, they have developed derivative products like brown sugar twisted dough sticks, ginger-infused brown sugar cubes, and brown sugar pastries. Currently, the craft is primarily passed down through family lineages and master-apprentice relationships; veteran artisans uphold traditional methods while younger generations expand sales channels, adapting this century-old rural sugar-making craft to modern dietary preferences and ensuring the enduring legacy of this heritage sugarcane aroma.
VI. Summary of Intangible Cultural Heritage Value
The craft of making Yiwu brown sugar represents a traditional culinary art form that harmoniously blends favorable natural conditions, geographical advantages, artisan craftsmanship, and local folk customs. It preserves the authentic flavor derived from traditional, purely physical boiling methods and upholds the seasonal customs of Jiangnan’s agrarian life, while also embodying the unique commercial culture of Yiwu’s marketplace. A single block of brown sugar represents not merely the reduction of cane juice, but the transmission of local craftsmanship—serving as a vivid microcosm of China’s intangible cultural heritage regarding folk cuisine.
