Furong and Cangshi: Drunk in the Time of Yongjia Ancient Village
On the map of cultural travel, the ancient villages of Yongjia stand as serene and profound monuments to the pastoral soul of China. These villages nestled in the lush mountains of Zhejiang Province—from the lotus-surrounded waters to the scholarly Cangpo—offer not only a spatial journey but also a time-traveling experience through China's millennia-old philosophy, architecture, and communal life. For international travelers, they serve as an unparalleled window into understanding the harmony between people, nature, and history, which form the essential components of China's cultural heritage.
The essence of visiting these villages lies in immersing oneself in the ideal of "mountain and water" life—a Chinese philosophical concept that emphasizes harmonious coexistence between humans and nature. The journey begins at Furong Village, named after the "blooming lotus flowers." Established in the late Tang Dynasty, it was meticulously planned by learned scholars based on feng shui principles, embraced by the "Three Crowns" mountains and nourished by a clear, winding stream. This is not merely a settlement plan but a tangible manifestation of the aspiration to create a utopian community where culture and nature flourish together. Strolling on the bluestone paths, one walks the same roads once trodden by scholars, farmers, and craftsmen who sought seclusion, inspiration, and a balanced life throughout the ages.
The architectural wisdom of these villages manifests as a silent language crafted from wood and stone, whispering the wisdom of their ancestors. Furong Village's iconic "Furong Pond" reflects the grand ancestral hall and surrounding peaks, exemplifying harmonious landscape integration. Cangpo Village demonstrates even more ingenious planning. Designed by Li Shiri, a renowned Song Dynasty state master, in the 12th century, the village resembles a traditional inkstone: a long street serves as the brush, several ponds act as inkstones, and surrounding rocks resemble ink. This design is not arbitrary but a deliberate effort to nurture cultural prosperity. The layout of the "Seven-Star" wells and "Jinping" cypress grove within the village serves dual purposes of fire prevention, flood control, and climate regulation—a sophisticated ecological engineering system that continues to function effectively today.
Beyond their physical form, these villages stand as living repositories of intangible cultural heritage. In Cangpo, the legacy of the "Eighteen Jinshi" —a group of revered scholars who once taught here—remains palpable. Their descendants uphold the tradition of farming and learning, as evidenced by the ancient lecture halls and elegant couplets carved on wooden pillars. The annual ancestral worship ceremony is not a performance but a vibrant, living tradition that unites the community. Travelers might hear the timeless melodies of Yongkun Opera, its lyrical tunes echoing across the square, or witness artisans practicing ancient crafts like bamboo weaving. These are not staged performances for tourists but the beating heart of a community deeply proud of its identity.
For modern explorers, wandering through these villages offers a serene journey of discovery. From a metropolis like Shanghai to Yongjia, travelers can take a high-speed train to Wenzhou, then transfer to a car to enter this picturesque countryside—a transition from hyper-modernity to timeless tranquility. The best time to visit is spring, when azaleas blanket the hills, or autumn, when crisp air fills the landscape with golden hues. Strolling through labyrinthine alleys makes time stand still. You might pause (using translation apps) to chat with elderly locals drying sweet potatoes in the sun, follow waterways to discover a hidden courtyard where a calligrapher practices, or hike along ancient paths once trodden by military officials, scholars, and merchants, now showcasing terraced fields and misty valleys. Local specialties—fresh bamboo shoots, river-caught fish, and Yongjia wheat cakes—provide a simple yet flavorful reward for curious palates.
However, the future of these treasures is not without challenges. The dual allure of modernization and urban life threatens the continuity of these communities. Striking a balance between tourist influx (critical for economic survival) and the need to preserve fragile ancient structures and traditional lifestyles is a delicate art. These villages are walking a tightrope, leveraging their inclusion on UNESCO's World Heritage Tentative List to promote sustainable tourism. Multiple initiatives are underway, including training local guides, restoring buildings using traditional craftsmanship, and creating opportunities to encourage young people to stay and become guardians of their heritage.
For international visitors, the ancient villages of Yongjia are more than just a collection of old buildings. They are a living classroom. They reveal the true essence of feng shui, showing that it is not superstition but a sophisticated system of environmental planning. They embody a Chinese spiritual quality, where learning, family, and nature are inseparable. In a world often dominated by fast-paced, fragmented urban experiences, these villages offer a sanctuary. Here, you can listen to the whisper of the wind through ancient cypresses, gaze at the reflection of the moon gate in the tranquil pond, and realize that the deepest journeys are those that allow you to momentarily merge into a continuous story—written not with ink, but with stones, flowing water, and the eternal spirit of this land.
In this fast-paced era, the villages of Yongjia gently yet powerfully remind us of the enduring beauty of continuity. They are not frozen in time, but living, breathing communities where the past is honored as elders rather than forgotten relics. From Furong to Cangpo, one steps into a more serene and harmonious world, leaving with a deeper sense of peace and tranquility than when they arrived.
