On summer nights in Quanzhou, you'll always find small stalls lit by warm lights, their glass cases neatly arranged with crystal-clear bowls containing amber-colored jelly studded with grayish-brown sea worms. This traditional snack, which deters outsiders but captivates locals, is the signature dish of Anhai, Quanzhou—sea worm jelly, a glimpse into the gentle warmth of the sea hidden within the intangible cultural heritage of southern Fujian.
Sea worms, not bamboo shoots, are actually marine organisms scientifically known as Sipunculus nudus, growing in brackish mudflats where fresh and salt water meet. Their name comes from their resemblance to bamboo shoots emerging from the ground. The most widely circulated legend about the origin of sea worm jelly is that of Zheng Chenggong's troops stationed in southern Fujian: His soldiers dug up sea worms from the mudflats to make soup to stave off hunger. The soup, left overnight, solidified at low temperatures, tasting even more refreshing and delicious than the hot soup. This unexpected delicacy spread from the military camp to the common people, taking root and being passed down in the Anhai area for over three hundred years.
Making sea worm jelly relies entirely on handcraft and experience, with absolutely no artificial collagen added. Fresh sea worms are first raised for a day to purge sand and mud, then repeatedly rinsed and have their internal organs and blood squeezed out. They are then placed in a pot with a little salt, brought to a boil over high heat, and then simmered for several hours to extract abundant natural collagen. Finally, the broth and worms are poured into small bowls and allowed to cool naturally in a cool, shady place, resulting in a firm, chewy, and crystal-clear sea worm jelly. The cooking time is crucial; the jelly must be extracted without overcooking the sea worms, otherwise the texture will be lost.
The dipping sauce is the soul of sea worm jelly. The standard pairing for Minnan people is garlic soy sauce, fragrant vinegar, mustard, and cilantro. Picking up a piece, the chewy and cool texture initially offers the fresh, clean taste of the sea, with the sea worms crisp and chewy. Dipping it in the sauce creates a savory and slightly spicy flavor, instantly enriching the taste experience. On a summer night, a bowl of sea worm jelly on a street corner instantly dispels the heat, leaving you with a mouthful of the sea's bounty.
Today, sea worm jelly is not only a daily snack for Quanzhou residents, but also a culinary calling card for Quanzhou, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The time-honored brand in Anhai still insists on using wild sea worms and traditional techniques, passing down the craftsmanship of three generations. From an emergency ration in military camps to a refined delicacy, sea worm jelly embodies not only the gelatinous texture of sea worms, but also the Minnan people's reverence for the sea, their adherence to traditional flavors, and the enduring warmth hidden in the everyday life of the city.
