In the heart of China’s Jiangsu cuisine lies a dish that dazzles not only the palate but also the eyes—Squirrel Fish (松鼠桂鱼), a masterpiece of culinary artistry. With its golden, crispy exterior resembling a squirrel’s tail and a sweet-sour glaze that sings as it’s poured, this dish has captivated diners for centuries. Rooted in the culinary traditions of Suzhou, a city famed for its refined flavors and delicate techniques, Squirrel Fish embodies the elegance and ingenuity of Jiangsu cooking. Its journey from a humble local specialty to a celebrated national treasure is a tale of imperial favor, meticulous craftsmanship, and cultural symbolism.

Origins and Historical Legends

The dish’s origins are steeped in folklore, often linked to the Qing Dynasty’s Emperor Qianlong, who ruled during the 18th century. According to legend, during his southern tours, Qianlong dined incognito at a Suzhou restaurant called Songhelou. The chef, faced with the challenge of serving a whole fish without offending local customs (as some fish were considered sacred), ingeniously carved the fish into a shape resembling a squirrel. The dish’s name was born from the sizzling sound of the sauce hitting the hot fish, mimicking a squirrel’s chirp. The emperor’s delight propelled the dish to fame, and it soon became a hallmark of Suzhou’s culinary identity.

Over time, the recipe evolved. Originally made with carp (due to its symbolic significance in Chinese culture), chefs later switched to mandarin fish (guìyú), prized for its tender, flaky flesh and fewer bones. By the late Qing Dynasty, Squirrel Fish had cemented its place in Su Cai (Suzhou cuisine), a subcategory of Jiangsu’s broader culinary tradition, known for its emphasis on fresh ingredients, precise knife work, and balanced flavors.

Crafting the Perfect Squirrel Fish

Creating Squirrel Fish is a labor of love, demanding exceptional skill. The process begins with selecting a live mandarin fish, typically around 750 grams, ensuring the meat is firm yet tender. The chef meticulously removes the bones while keeping the fish’s head and tail intact, then scores the flesh in a diamond pattern—a technique called jīhuā (蓑衣刀). This allows the fish to curl dramatically when fried, achieving the iconic “squirrel” shape.

The fish is then coated in a thin layer of starch and deep-fried twice: first at a lower temperature to cook the interior, then at a higher heat to achieve a glass-like crispness. The pièce de résistance is the sauce—a glossy blend of tomato paste, sugar, vinegar, and a hint of soy, simmered to a velvety consistency. When poured over the fish, the sauce crackles, creating an auditory spectacle that delights diners.

The dish’s appeal lies in its contrasts: the ‌crispness‌ of the exterior gives way to ‌succulent‌ flesh, while the ‌tangy-sweet‌ sauce balances richness. Garnished with pine nuts, peas, or diced peppers, the presentation is as vibrant as its flavor.

Cultural Significance and Symbolism

Beyond its taste, Squirrel Fish carries deep cultural meaning. In Chinese tradition, fish symbolize abundance (年年有余), while the squirrel represents agility and prosperity. The dish’s playful form and auspicious associations make it a staple at weddings, banquets, and Lunar New Year celebrations.

Its history also reflects Suzhou’s role as a cultural hub. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, the city was a center for scholars and artists, who celebrated the dish in poetry and paintings. Today, Squirrel Fish is a living testament to Suzhou’s heritage, often featured in UNESCO-recognized intangible cultural heritage events.

Global Recognition

While deeply rooted in Jiangsu, Squirrel Fish has gained international acclaim. It’s a highlight in Chinese restaurants worldwide, admired for its theatrical presentation and harmonious flavors. Food critics often compare it to Western dishes like Sweet and Sour Fish, but its intricate preparation sets it apart‌.

Conclusion

More than a dish, Squirrel Fish is a symphony of history, skill, and artistry. From its legendary origins to its modern-day status as a culinary icon, it invites diners to savor not just a meal, but centuries of Chinese gastronomic tradition. Whether enjoyed in a Suzhou teahouse or a bustling overseas restaurant, this golden delicacy continues to charm—one crispy, flavorful bite at a time.