On the northern Jiangsu plain, the ancient city of Xuzhou stands quietly. As a transportation hub connecting five provinces, Xuzhou has been a vital transit point for merchants traveling north and south since ancient times. The city's soul is not only engraved in the legends of the Chu-Han Contention, but also in the vibrant atmosphere of life rising from its streets and alleys. Xuzhou cuisine is the most vivid reflection of this vibrant atmosphere—unlike the delicate and elegant delicacies of Jiangnan cuisine, it possesses the bold and hearty flavors of northern cuisine. Although located in Jiangsu, Xuzhou defies the stereotypical image of "Suzhou cuisine," creating a unique blend of savory, savory, and spicy flavors.
A morning in Xuzhou begins with a bowl of steaming hot tang (饣汤). This soup, simmered with hen, pork bones, and wheat kernels, boasts a history of over 4,000 years and is considered China's earliest fast food. The character "饣" (饣) mentioned in Zuo Zhuan (Zuo Zhuan) bears witness to this ancient delicacy. The traditional Xuzhou people have a particular way of enjoying tangtang: first, crack a raw egg into the bottom of a bowl, pour over the boiling broth, and quickly stir, until the egg yolk blooms into a golden cloud. Garnished with pepper and cilantro, and accompanied by freshly baked dumplings or vegetable boxes, a bowl of this soup brings a bead of sweat to the forehead and a sense of relaxation in every pore. In the old shops of the Huilongwo Historic District, you can often see three generations of a family sharing tangtang. Elders recount the days of exchanging food coupons for tangtang, while children intently pick at the wheat kernels in their bowls. This thousand-year-old soup gently connects Xuzhou's past and present.
As the sun sets, Xuzhou's culinary landscape truly unfolds. The charcoal fires of the barbecue stalls illuminate the sky, and lamb skewers sizzle on skewers. Xuzhou barbecue, unlike the rough and tumble of Xinjiang or the unrestrained style of Northeast China, is unique in its own way. Local young goats are used for their tender, non-muttony flavor. They are marinated with scallion, ginger, and secret spices to remove the fishy smell and enhance the flavor. During the roasting process, the meat is repeatedly brushed with goat fat to lock in the juices. The most authentic way to enjoy it is the "roasted whole lamb"—the entire lamb is roasted in a special oven, the skin golden and crispy, while the interior retains its rosy pink. Diners gather around a table, carving the lamb with a knife and eating it immediately. Paired with sweet bean sauce, cumin, and Xuzhou's specialty flatbread, the aroma of meat and wheat blends in the mouth, and one can almost hear the laughter and joy of banquets depicted in Han Dynasty stone reliefs.
The aroma of clay pot chicken wafts from a small street vendor. This rural dish, originating from the shores of Weishan Lake, has become a Xuzhou culinary signature. A golden hebing (flatbread) rests on the bottom of the black iron pot, piled high with richly sauced chicken, potatoes, and dried beans. As the sauce thickens over high heat, it seeps into the pancakes, leaving the bottom half crispy and the top half soft from soaking up the broth. Interestingly, Xuzhou residents in different regions have distinct preferences for clay pot chicken: those in Fengxian County often add chili peppers, those in Pizhou favor vermicelli noodles, and the urban area's recipe is closer to the original. This diversity mirrors the complexity of Xuzhou's dialects—Xuzhou, nestled between four major strategic regions, also exhibits a diverse and fusion-inspired culinary culture.
When discussing the essence of Xuzhou snacks, Bazi Rou (Chinese pork belly) is a must-mention. This braised pork belly, bound and stewed with straw rope, appears crude but possesses a hidden ingenuity. The meat is chosen to be "three-layered," with alternating layers of fat and lean meat. Over twenty spices are added during the stew, and the key is to use a base of seasoned broth and simmer for at least four hours. The resulting Bazi Rou is bright red, rich but not greasy, and melts in your mouth. At Xuzhou's time-honored Zhouji Bazi Rou, you can often see this scene: a white-haired elder tremblingly picks up a piece of Bazi Rou and recounts to his grandchildren the memory of his first experience with it sixty years ago; while young couples hold up their phones, snapping photos before tucking into the delicious treat. A single piece of Bazi Rou connects the culinary memories of generations of Xuzhou residents.
Xuzhou's culinary landscape is dotted with many surprising destinations: the spicy soup dumplings at Lianglaifeng Restaurant, made with a savory and appetizing broth made from old hens and eel bones; the eight-strand fried dough sticks from Mashi Street, so golden and crispy you can see the sunlight filtering through them; and the sausages from Wangji Town in Suining, smoked using traditional techniques and imbued with the fragrance of fruit wood... Behind these delicacies lies the perseverance and innovation of countless artisans. Just like the Han Dynasty kitchen figurines on display at the Xuzhou Museum, this city's commitment to delicious food has remained unchanged for millennia.
