In the ancient villages of Yixian County, nestled at the foot of Mount Huangshan in Huizhou, a distinctive sight appears around the eighth day of the twelfth lunar month: beneath the eaves of every household hang round, slightly concave blocks of tofu with a distinct ochre-yellow hue. This is *Laba* Tofu—an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Huangshan City. Dubbed the "Vegetarian Ham" of Huizhou, it represents a quintessential winter flavor deeply ingrained in the very soul of the local people.
I. Origins: A Gift from Huizhou Merchants and the Passage of Time
The history of *Laba* Tofu dates back to the Ming and Qing dynasties, inextricably linked to the culture of the Huizhou merchants. Legend has it that, in ancient times, a Huizhou woman accidentally left a block of tofu on a stone mill. After being exposed to the biting winds and frost of winter, the tofu miraculously became firm, savory, and aromatic—an unexpected culinary discovery. Because it is traditionally produced in concentrated batches around the eighth day of the twelfth lunar month (the *Laba* Festival) in preparation for the New Year, it acquired the name "*Laba* Tofu."
It served as a vital form of "dry rations" for traveling Huizhou merchants: firm in texture, rich in flavor, and highly durable. Requiring no refrigeration, it could be hung in a well-ventilated spot and preserved for months, offering merchants—who often traveled far and wide across the land—a most comforting and tangible taste of home. Its circular shape also embodies the Huizhou people's cherished wish for "perfect wholeness—like the full moon—and the joyous reunion of the entire family."
II. Craftsmanship: Ten Steps, Slow-Cured by Time
Authentic *Laba* Tofu is the product of both time and artisanal dedication. Its creation involves over ten traditional steps—executed entirely by hand and free of any artificial additives:
1. **Ingredient Selection:** Only plump, locally grown soybeans from the Huangshan region are used, paired with fresh mountain spring water to ensure a pure, unadulterated soybean aroma.
2. **Base Preparation:** The soybeans are soaked, ground into a slurry using a traditional stone mill, filtered to remove solids, and then coagulated using a natural brine (*luhu*) to form a firm tofu base.
3. **Kneading and Pressing:** Spices—such as star anise, chili peppers, and five-spice powder—are mixed into the tofu base. The mixture is placed inside a cloth bag, repeatedly kneaded and pounded, and then subjected to heavy pressure beneath a stone block to squeeze out excess moisture, resulting in an increasingly firm and dense texture.
4. **Shaping:** The pressed tofu is molded into a round, disc-like shape. A small hole is carved into the center and filled with table salt; this design facilitates the absorption of flavor into the tofu while also providing a convenient means for hanging it up to cure. 5. Drying: Slowly dried under the warm winter sun, or gently roasted at low temperatures over pine charcoal fires, the process spans over ten days. As moisture evaporates and salt permeates the interior, an amber-hued, glossy film forms on the outer skin.
The finished product is round as a full moon and possesses a lustrous, jade-like yellow hue. When sliced open, it reveals a firm, dense texture. Its flavor profile is a harmonious blend—salty yet savory, savory with a hint of sweetness, and sweet with an aromatic depth. The more you chew, the more the rich, mellow notes of soybean and spices unfold.
III. Flavor: Versatile Preparations—From Home Cooking to Formal Banquets
Laba Tofu offers a wide variety of culinary applications, serving as the ultimate "all-rounder" on the Huizhou dining table:
• Cold Appetizer: Sliced thinly and dressed with sesame oil, scallions, ginger, and garlic; savory, refreshing, and an excellent accompaniment to wine or spirits.
• Stir-fry: Stir-fried with Celtuce (stem lettuce) or cured pork; the tofu absorbs the rich oils and vegetable aromas, making it the perfect complement to a bowl of rice.
• Stews & Braises: Simmered together with pork ribs or free-range chicken; the tofu releases its savory essence, enriching the broth and giving it a deeper, more mellow flavor.
• Formal Banquets: Carved into intricate shapes—such as flowers or birds—and presented with exquisite plating, it serves as a signature cold dish at traditional Huizhou feasts.
IV. Heritage: The Taste of Huizhou as Intangible Cultural Heritage
In 2009, the craft of making Laba Tofu was officially inscribed on Huangshan City’s List of Intangible Cultural Heritage. Today, in Shiyin Village (Xidi Town, Yi County), master artisans continue to uphold these ancient methods; within local heritage centers, this traditional craft is being passed down from generation to generation. More than just a culinary delicacy, Laba Tofu serves as a living vessel for Huizhou’s agrarian culture, folk customs, and the enterprising spirit of its merchants—for in every savory bite, one tastes a piece of Huizhou’s enduring history.
