Beneath the *Qilou* (arcade-style buildings) of the ancient city of Zhangzhou in southern Fujian, if you were to ask the local masters about the most authentic souvenir, they would invariably point to those square pastries stamped with the red characters "Hanlin." This is Zhangzhou Hanlin Cake—a seemingly unassuming mung bean pastry that, in fact, harbors a legend of "sudden fame known throughout the land." It is a true "royal favorite"—a delicacy so renowned that its story has been officially enshrined in local historical chronicles.
I. A Name Bestowed by the Emperor: From "Jieyuan Cake" to "Hanlin Cake"
A delightful tale regarding the origins of Hanlin Cake circulates among the people of Zhangzhou. Legend has it that during the reign of Emperor Qianlong in the Qing Dynasty, a gifted scholar named Li Wei emerged from Zhangzhou Prefecture. Before Li Wei departed for the capital to sit for the imperial examinations, his mother—concerned about the arduous journey her son faced—took the mung beans native to her hometown, hulled and ground them into flour, and, with the addition of maltose and lard, meticulously steamed a box of pastries for him to eat along the way.
As Li Wei traveled northward, he reached the city of Handan, where he chanced upon Emperor Qianlong, who was traveling incognito on a private inspection tour. The two engaged in lively conversation; impressed by Li Wei’s extraordinary eloquence, Qianlong asked what provisions he was carrying. Li Wei respectfully presented the mung bean pastries his mother had made. Upon tasting them, Qianlong found that they melted instantly in the mouth, offering a pure sweetness that was neither cloying nor greasy. Delighted, the Emperor immediately took up his imperial brush and personally inscribed the three characters "Hanlin Cake," bestowing the name upon Li Wei. True to the prophecy, Li Wei subsequently passed the imperial examinations with high honors and was appointed to a position within the Hanlin Academy. Thus, the name "Hanlin Cake" spread far and wide across the land, becoming a cherished intangible cultural heritage treasure of which the people of Zhangzhou remain immensely proud.
II. Intangible Cultural Heritage at Your Fingertips: The Ultimate Art of "Subtraction"
The reason Hanlin Cake has attained the status of intangible cultural heritage lies not in a complex accumulation of ingredients or techniques, but rather in an utmost respect for traditional ingredients and a rigorous mastery of craftsmanship.
Unlike the "imitation" mung bean pastries found on the market today—which are often laden with excessive starch and food additives—authentic Zhangzhou Hanlin Cake places its primary emphasis on a single quality: "purity."
Hulling and De-fibering: Only the finest quality mung beans are selected. These must undergo a process—whether by hand or by machine—to remove their outer hulls, retaining only the purest bean kernels. This crucial step serves to eliminate the raw, earthy odor characteristic of beans, thereby ensuring that the finished product possesses a delicate, pale-yellow hue and a refined, silky-smooth texture. Sifting to a Fine Dust: The steamed mung beans must be sifted repeatedly through a sieve with mesh as fine as a strand of hair. As the veteran artisans say, "The finer the sift, the faster it melts." Only when sifted to a flour-like fineness can it achieve that sublime state of "melting instantly in the mouth without sticking to the tongue."
Mastering the Heat: During the roasting process, controlling the heat relies entirely on experience. A moment too long and it burns; a moment too short and it remains raw. The maltose added to the mixture must be the kind produced locally using traditional methods; this ensures the delicate fragrance of the mung beans is locked in without the sweetness becoming cloying or overpowering.
Once finished, Hanlin Cake is typically cut into one-inch squares, wrapped in edible glutinous rice paper, and then encased in exquisite packaging featuring gold lettering against a red background. Pick up a piece and give it a gentle squeeze; it is so crumbly and delicate it feels as though it might crumble to dust in your hand. Place it in your mouth—no chewing required—and with just a light press of the tongue, it dissolves into a silky stream of sweet bean paste, leaving nothing behind but a lingering fragrance on your lips and palate.
III. Neo-Chinese Reinvention: Giving an Old Craft a "New Wardrobe"
As young people, we cherish the history of Hanlin Cake, yet we can also infuse it with new vitality. Since traditional Hanlin Cake is characterized by its "goose-yellow" hue, why not draw inspiration from the concept of "botanical dyeing"—which we discussed earlier—to embark on a creative experiment we might call "Hanlin Cake 2.0"?
A Creative Recipe: The "Hanlin" Gradient Mung Bean Cake
Base Layer: Retain the traditional, original flavor (goose-yellow) as a tribute to history.
Accents: Take half of the mung bean paste and mix in a pinch of butterfly pea flower powder to create a deep, indigo-blue hue; then, mix another portion with a pinch of strawberry powder to create a soft, gentle pink.
Shaping: Break away from the constraints of the traditional square shape by using a round mousse ring instead. First, lay down a layer of the original-flavor paste, followed by a layer of the blue paste, and finally, garnish the top with a freeze-dried strawberry or a fresh mint leaf.
Symbolism: This is no longer merely a simple tea snack, but rather a work of art—a piece titled "Hanlin Springtime."
IV. Conclusion: A Cake That Embodies the Spirit of Home and Nation
Today, as you stroll along Hong Kong Road in the ancient city of Zhangzhou, you can still spot veteran artisans tending to their charcoal stoves, sifting the mung bean powder—sieveful after sieveful—just as they have for generations. For them, Hanlin Cake is not merely a craft for earning a livelihood; it is, more importantly, a weighty cultural legacy.
The next time you savor a piece of this delicately sweet Hanlin Cake, take a moment to truly appreciate it. What you are tasting is not merely the fresh fragrance of mung beans, but also a mother’s deep concern for her son, the delight of Emperor Qianlong, and the unwavering dedication to craftsmanship upheld by artisans in Southern Fujian for three centuries.
This is the true allure of Intangible Cultural Heritage. It is unassuming, yet profoundly substantial; it is unembellished, yet possesses the power to most deeply soothe the human heart.